Wednesday, November 13, 2013

At last, to Machu Picchu we go!


It really is a special place, worth the effort to get here.

We've been in Peru for about 2 months now, based in the Sacred Valley town of Pisac. There are SO many ancient archeological sites (ruins) in this area, some of them nicely restored. Every day we look up at one of the best, carved into the top and sides of Pisac Mountain.  But of course the most famous and best-restored is the lost city of Machu Picchu. This is truly a place of legend, surrounded by mystery and awe.  But these days, the tourist trail is well-organized, so what it takes is a fat wallet and some tolerance for over-commercialization. Though not quite Disneyland, we knew it would be overpriced and touristy. But, if you're in Peru, might as well join the crowd and see what it's about. Finally, in early November, we felt it was time to go.

The trip began in Cusco, buying the entrance tickets, train tickets, and making hotel reservations. With so many people wanting to visit the site, the government limits the numbers each day to 2500 people.
While many people sign up for an all-inclusive tour pacakge, we traveled independently from Cusco to Ollantaytambo, where we spent the night. The following afternoon we rode a short, but very expensive tourist train (US $100 for a 90 minute ride!) to the town of Aguas Calientes, jumping off point for Machu Picchu.
The tourist train to Machu Picchu
Plaza fountain at Aguas Calientes, aka Machu Picchu town

Constant invitations from restaurant workers in Aguas calientes


Besides the walking tour of the main archeological site, there are two mountain trails you can sign up to hike, Machu Picchu Mountain and Wayna Picchu (sometimes spelled Huayna Picchu).  These require additional payment and a special ticket, since they limit the numbers of hikers. William and Eduardo started the day early with a hike up Wayna Picchu Mountain (this is the steep peak you see in the background of most photos of Machu Picchu).
The classic view of the ruins, with Wayna Picchu in the background.


Will cruising through the misty morning en route to WaynaPicchu Mountain
We were assigned the 7-8am group, so we had to arrive at the trailhead before 8:00am. After raining all night long, the day dawned cloudy but not raining. We joined a significant mob of tourists and caught the 6:30 bus up to the park entrance, and then lined up with the crowd to show our passports and tickets just like the airport. Once inside the ancient city, we were free to wander, but now it was 7:30 and we had to blast the city to get to the start of our mountain trail.
Steep slippery stairs carved  granite cliffs


Verrrry steeeeeep stairs on the way up Wayna Picchu
William taking in the amazing view from the summit of WaynaPicchu Mountain

Living on the edge
It was a great hike, but I also heard good reports about hiking Macchu Picchu Mountain, a bigger peak but with far fewer people. Both require an additional ticket, and offer amazing views of the site.
A surprise meeting with a llama as we return to the main entrance
 After our 3-hour round trip hike up Wayna Picchu, Will and I rejoined the rest of the family for the official tour of the ruins. The sun was blazing, and the walking is tiring (lots of stairs).  After about an hour, Serena and I pulled away and found a shady spot under a huge boulder. Though you're not supposed to bring food into the park (I don't know what they expect you to make it through the day!), we pulled out some snacks and enjoyed some quiet shady rest away from the hordes of people.
FYI: you don't need to sign up for a tour, just hitch on to one of the many groups you'll run into anyway.

Lots of stairs!

The classic view of the ruins, with Wayna Picchu in the background.

A lizard finds some warmth on the granite stones
 After visiting the ruins for the whole day, we were ready for a good soak in the mineral baths at
Aguas Calientes. What an amazing setting, in a steep canyon in the Andean cloud forest! There are several warm baths, one cold one, and one hot one.  It sees heavy use, but it was still enjoyable.

 



No comments:

Post a Comment