Exploring Ancient Sites near Calca

The Sacred Valley of the Incas

High in the Andes Mountains of southern Peru, the Urubamba River has carved out a deep, fertile valley. With an abundance of water and fertile bottomland soils, the Sacred Valley of the Incas was, and still is one of Peru's most important agricultural areas.  Corn is the dominant crop, but there are many other crops, including cabbage, carrots, peas, potatoes, and squash.

Centuries-old Inca terraces at Urcos, still being used for farming

The ancient people built many stone structures in this valley--some for ritual or military purposes, others for housing royalty and their servants, and also some buildings for food storage (better preservation in the higher, drier locations far above the river). Today there are perhaps hundreds of ancient ruins from Inca and pre-Inca civilizations. We took an excursion to explore some of these near Calca.

Calca viewed from up the side valley

Round temple and walls at Urcos, a pre-Inca site

Half an hour down the valley from Pisac is the pleasant, small town of Calca, whose name means "construction of stone." There we found a guide and visited several interesting sites, starting in the main valley bottom and working our way high up the side valley.

Roger explains how this sticky plant resin was used in the mortar 

Roger,  our guide, explains the story of the toad face and channel carved into this big rock: the Princess and the pee! According to the story,  during the ceremony, the princess would perch atop the big rock,  pee into the carved channel, and if her pee reached the end of the channel (the toad's mouth),  this would signify an abundant and good year for the community.

A cultural museum will open next year just outside Urcos

Monument to immigrants from the Amazonian lowlands to Calca; Roger's parents are examples--they came from Quillabamba, just over the pass

1930's hydroelectric plant once powered the town of Calca

Canchispuquio ruins above Calca

Ruins above Calca: Canchispuquio

Ancasmarca Ruins 

t

Touch the sky

Traditional weavers offer there handiwork at the center, which also helps support the condor project.

High iron content colors the water

Thanksgiving Dinner in Peru

Joy and kids serving up the food

Thanksgiving dinner: chicken, potatos, naan bread, rice, carrot-beet salad, cabbage salad

PJ sharing some tunes around the fire while the orbs dance around him!

Will sporting his new Peruvian sombrero

Music around the fire

It was a wonderful shared dinner, cooked in a clay oven out on the land. Good food,  good friends, family, sharing songs around the campfire....and it didn't rain!   We have so much to be thankful for.  Happy Thanksgiving to All!

Un paseo a caballo -- a horseback ride in the Andes

Family outing on horseback, Ollantaytambo, Peru

After returning from our superfast, very commercial visit to Machu Picchu, we spent a few days in Ollantaytambo, visiting nearby ruins and doing day hikes, but the highlight was  a very enjoyable horseback ride up the valley of the Río Patacancha, a side valley of the Sacred Valley. We met a local guide who offered us a relaxed day trip up a side valley to see some ancient ruins.

Valley of the Patacancha River

The kids did great on these gentle Criollo (Spanish) horses

Our guide suggested that Serena, who is just 6, share a horse with me (her papá),  to see how she would do, but after an hour, we decided she could ride her own horse. William of course was big enough to have his own horse from the start. Both kids did quite well and we all enjoyed the adventure.

Howdy, Pardner!

Our guide grew up in this area, so he really knew all the trails and neighbors, and in fact we passed his family's farm along the way (he had to chase the horses out of the cornfield!) At the high point of the tour, we arrived at a mysterious pre-Inca site called Pumamarca. Spectacular views of surrounding mountains and villages greeted us. The day was sunny and hot, but without bugs (yay!) and the kids decided they want to go riding again (every day!)

Traversing Inca terraces on the way back down to Ollanta

At last, to Machu Picchu we go!

It really is a special place, worth the effort to get here.

We've been in Peru for about 2 months now, based in the Sacred Valley town of Pisac. There are SO many ancient archeological sites (ruins) in this area, some of them nicely restored. Every day we look up at one of the best, carved into the top and sides of Pisac Mountain.  But of course the most famous and best-restored is the lost city of Machu Picchu. This is truly a place of legend, surrounded by mystery and awe.  But these days, the tourist trail is well-organized, so what it takes is a fat wallet and some tolerance for over-commercialization. Though not quite Disneyland, we knew it would be overpriced and touristy. But, if you're in Peru, might as well join the crowd and see what it's about. Finally, in early November, we felt it was time to go.

The trip began in Cusco, buying the entrance tickets, train tickets, and making hotel reservations. With so many people wanting to visit the site, the government limits the numbers each day to 2500 people.
While many people sign up for an all-inclusive tour pacakge, we traveled independently from Cusco to Ollantaytambo, where we spent the night. The following afternoon we rode a short, but very expensive tourist train (US $100 for a 90 minute ride!) to the town of Aguas Calientes, jumping off point for Machu Picchu.

The tourist train to Machu Picchu

Plaza fountain at Aguas Calientes, aka Machu Picchu town

Constant invitations from restaurant workers in Aguas calientes

Besides the walking tour of the main archeological site, there are two mountain trails you can sign up to hike, Machu Picchu Mountain and Wayna Picchu (sometimes spelled Huayna Picchu).  These require additional payment and a special ticket, since they limit the numbers of hikers. William and Eduardo started the day early with a hike up Wayna Picchu Mountain (this is the steep peak you see in the background of most photos of Machu Picchu).

The classic view of the ruins, with Wayna Picchu in the background.

Will cruising through the misty morning en route to WaynaPicchu Mountain

We were assigned the 7-8am group, so we had to arrive at the trailhead before 8:00am. After raining all night long, the day dawned cloudy but not raining. We joined a significant mob of tourists and caught the 6:30 bus up to the park entrance, and then lined up with the crowd to show our passports and tickets just like the airport. Once inside the ancient city, we were free to wander, but now it was 7:30 and we had to blast the city to get to the start of our mountain trail.

Steep slippery stairs carved  granite cliffs

Verrrry steeeeeep stairs on the way up Wayna Picchu

William taking in the amazing view from the summit of WaynaPicchu Mountain

Living on the edge

It was a great hike, but I also heard good reports about hiking Macchu Picchu Mountain, a bigger peak but with far fewer people. Both require an additional ticket, and offer amazing views of the site.

A surprise meeting with a llama as we return to the main entrance

 After our 3-hour round trip hike up Wayna Picchu, Will and I rejoined the rest of the family for the official tour of the ruins. The sun was blazing, and the walking is tiring (lots of stairs).  After about an hour, Serena and I pulled away and found a shady spot under a huge boulder. Though you're not supposed to bring food into the park (I don't know what they expect you to make it through the day!), we pulled out some snacks and enjoyed some quiet shady rest away from the hordes of people.
FYI: you don't need to sign up for a tour, just hitch on to one of the many groups you'll run into anyway.

Lots of stairs!

The classic view of the ruins, with Wayna Picchu in the background.

A lizard finds some warmth on the granite stones

 After visiting the ruins for the whole day, we were ready for a good soak in the mineral baths at
Aguas Calientes. What an amazing setting, in a steep canyon in the Andean cloud forest! There are several warm baths, one cold one, and one hot one.  It sees heavy use, but it was still enjoyable.